Day 7 - Kyoto

My flight was on the mid night from Kansai Airport, hence there was one last chance for sightseeing. 

To-ji was not in my initial itinerary but its close proximity from Kyoto Station encouraged me to visit. One can either walk 30 minutes to the temple, or take the Private Kintetsu Local train to Toji station, which is just one stop from Kyoto Station. From there is about 10 minutes walk. 

 

Kintetsu Limited Express - The train that bought me from Nara to Kyoto, in retrospect.

Kintetsu Local Train - ahead to To-ji.

Kyoto - A typical Japan's street. Clean and Organised.

Lawson Convenience Store (Not an advertisement)

Back alley

 Entrance fees is JPY 500. To-ji is famous for its 5 stories pagoda behind a lotus pond garden. Unlike Kinkaku-ji and Ginkaku-ji, the pond garden is accessible to public through the narrow pathway, which is a delight. By exploring around the garden, I particularly enjoyed how its abundant natural and man-made properties offer a kaleidoscopic way to view the temple. Ignoring its historical background, the view alone is what beautifully distinguished itself from Kofuku-ji in Nara.

Partial Pagoda shyly hiding behind the trees

Facing the other side

Pagoda on a closer look

Pagoda in full view

Not just pagoda - Kodo Hall (left) and Kondo Hall (right)

One last glimpse of the pagoda before exiting.

Something modern - Chill out at Kyoto Station before departing to Airport

Epilogue

Upon completing my blog, it was rather amazing to realise the story of Japanese garden beauty had dominated my blog. I did not plan beforehand to talk so much about it, but I must admit the experience gained around these celebrated gardens is profound. I am a mediocre photographer, but it can always appeared nicely my photos. Just imagine how the professional can do. Of course, Japan has more to offer - reliable and extensive transportation system made all these possible, elegantly packaged Japanese food-based souvenirs, amiable locals who make u feel blended in and many more. In fact, just go into the convenience shop is a delight if you are curious enough.

It was not surprise the moment I boarded the plane back home, I start to plan my next trip here, in near future.

Day 6 - Kyoto

I only visited the Kyoto Imperial Palace in day 6 before heading for shopping and exploring in and around Kyoto Station. Access to the vicinity of Kyoto Imperial Palace is limited and advance reservation with the Imperial Household Agency is required. I highly recommend to sign up for the English tour, which runs twice per day for free serving as an interesting platform to learn about Japanese History. The tour runs for one hour, but only allows you to look into the building from open space around the palace complex. Below is the URL for reservation:

 http://sankan.kunaicho.go.jp/english/

Kyoto Imperial Palace is modest. Do not expect the usual UK's Buckingham Palace or China's Forbidden Palace. It is not exactly grandeur, lack sophisticate facade and one cannot spot any trace of shiny precious metals ornamenting those wooden buildings externally nor internally. What defines its value is its role as the official residence of Japanese Imperial Family and court nobles for almost 500 years from 14th century to 19th century. Of course, there is always a la Japanese Garden around the complex, which sometimes occupies more camera's memory card space than the palace structures. 

Peep from the Jomei-mon - Shishinden. This was the hall which the enthronement ceremonies of Emperor Taisho and Showa was held

Corridor of Jomei-mon

Kenrei-mon - Gate only allow for Emperor of Japan and foreign head of state to enter

Oikeniwa Garden - Built for strolling but off limit to visitors

Oikeniwa Garden from different angle

Osuzumi-sho - The Summer Palace

Kogo-sho - Venue of the Kogosho Conference which inaugurated Meiji Restoration

Sadly to say that I had distracted by the fascinating view of the garden and forgotten the name and the function of some gardens and halls I passed by, which explained the lack of caption in these pictures.

There are 3 more Imperial properties in Kyoto, being Sento Imperial Palace, Katsura Imperial Villa and Shugakuin Imperial Villa, which are also open for reservation but the tour is conducted in Japanese. I should have visited those despite the language barrier. 

Day 5 - Kyoto

I arranged my trip based on type of transportation. 1st day at Kyoto encompassed sights accessible by bus and 2nd day subway. Therefore, I bought the one-day subway pass at JPY 600.

Main highlight of day 5 was a trip to UNESCO World Heritage site - Nijo-jo (Castle). It was within the walking distance from Nijo station and cost JPY600. This is a flatland castle, resembling a fortified palace for families of Tokugawa Shogunate and subsequently Imperial members.  There was a castle keep but destroyed by lightning in the 19th century leaving just the foundation. A very distinctive feature of Nijo-jo is the nightingale corridors in Ninomaru Palace, which squeaks upon impact from footsteps. This is a type of primitive alarm, able to warn occupants if there was intruders during the night. Surrounding the palace is Ninomaru Garden, a standard Japanese landscape garden featuring carefully arrange rocks and trees around or on a pond.

An Introduction - A corner sentry on the outer wall

The main gate - Higashi Ote Mon

Ninomaru Palace - Also appeared in Fridge Magnet, Key Chain, Postcards etc

The side of Ninomaru Palace

Ninomaru Garden - Get enough these pictures and one can start make calender.

Neither DSLR nor advance photography skills is required to capture the beauty of Japanese Garden

Inner Moat

Seiryu Garden - Constructed in 1965, lack of historical aura but rich with scenic beauty

Sorry, it's neither autumn nor spring. Imagine how its beauty can be amplified during cherry blossom or red leaves.

I visited Nishiki Market in afternoon as well as Nishi and Higashi Hoganji (Temple)  afterwards. I loved this clean market which sells all sorts of marine products, dried foods and snacks. Did a little shopping here before heading to the temples.


Nishi and Higashi Hoganji is located not far south from Kyoto Station, and be reached within 20 minutes by foot. These two temples are less popular and spectacular than the temples from previous days, but it is less crowded, thus giving more space to examine the design of the wooden structures if it interest you. If you have extra time, why not? After all, the admission is free.

Nishi Hoganji - Probably the absence of any Japanese Garden diminishes its popularity.

The dragon pool? It's for washing hands, not for drinking.

Day 4 - Kyoto

Kyoto was the successor of Japanese capital after Nara in late 8th century, sustained until the Meiji Restoration circa 1860s. Escaped from allied bombings during World War 2 and catastrophic natural disaster; most of the parks, temples, shrines, zen-gardens, a Geisha district, 2 imperial palace and 2 imperial villa remain intact until today. 

I took the Kintetsu Kyoto Line from Kintetsu-Nara to Kyoto Station, costing just JPY 620. JR is slightly expensive at JPY 710 departing from Nara Station. Both options took about 45 minutes of traveling time. If you are willing to spend more, purchasing the limited express ticket at an additional of JPY 510 will save you 10 minutes of traveling time, a reserved cushion-seat and a luggage compartment. If you are traveling from Osaka, JR Special Rapid Service can take you there just under 30 minutes at JPY 560. Private Hankyu Line also has frequent train to Kyoto's Karasuma Station in 40 minutes, departing from Umeda Station and costing JPY 400.

A little luxury - I switched to limited express train at Yamato Sadaiji Station, just one stop away from Shin-Omiya Station (nearest station to my hotel at Nara)

Perhaps I was misconceived by the status of Kyoto as the ancient capital for a millennium, I never expected Kyoto is a modern, dominated by sky scrappers, suit-wearing white collars and hectic traffic city. As a starter, I was introduced by the massive 15 stories Kyoto station. It is a transportation hub with numerous bus terminal, conventional and Shinkansen (bullet train) stations. It houses several under and above ground shopping malls, a hotel and a theater. The roof of the station is open air and accessible by public.

The JR Section of Kyoto Station, showing a Shinkansen (Bullet Train) just departed.

Kyoto subway network is rather limited. Thankfully, it is supplemented by extensive bus network, with the Raku bus especially useful for traveler as it 3 lines connects to major sightseeing spot. Raku 100 and 101 depart from Kyoto Station; in which the former brings you to east side of Japan, passing by Kiyomizu  temple, Heian Shrine, Gion district and Ginkakuji. The latter covers Nijo Castle and Kinkakuji in which you can connect to other temples by switching bus at Kinkakuji. Raku 102 carries you from Ginkakuji to Kinkakuji. These 3 buses has frequent departure, ranging from every 10 minutes to 30 minutes. Other bus lines are also useful if you plan beforehand. Buses are reliable

with easily visible English Sign showing the direction of the bus, and each stop is announced in English. Delay is inevitable due to haphazard traffic condition, but based on my experience the margin does not exceed 15 minutes. All buses traveling around Kyoto cost a flat rate of JPY 230 per trip,  but one day pass at JPY 500 is perfect for anyone who travel more than 3 times per day. 

I bought the 1 day pass at tourism counter at Kyoto Station and it comes with a free bus route map and timetable.

Left: Subway one day pass which was handy on Day 5. Right: One day bus pass for Day 4

My first destination was Kiyomizu temple (Pure Water Temple) via Raku bus no. 100 to Gajozaka bus station. Adequate sign post around the area will guide you there, or just simply follow the crowd. Be prepared for the uphill hiking to the temple, passing by many snack shops, souvenirs and traditional craft shops. It was a challenging task, and rather frustrated when I reached main gate. It was crowded, and although it was unfair to say it is not great, it was just lacked the "wow" effect compare to my previous experience. For JPY 300, I got a typical wooden temple building without the adrenaline induced by its size nor design. Obviously I was looking from the wrong angle. I only realised it when I reached the sidewalk along the hill farther away. It is supported by massive column wooden scaffolding,  stretching 13 metres from the ground, enhanced by the view of cheery trees (although it was not blossoming by the time I visited) surrounding and in front of it. This panorama was what the temple best known for, condemning my ignorance from the beginning.

The main gate

Kiyomizu Temple Main Hall

Raku bus 100 brought me further to Ginkaku-ji (Silver Pavilion Temple) afterwards. I dropped off at Gainkakuji-mae. Ginkaku-ji is what I really anticipated for and had not been disappointed. The temple ground's primary focus is the actually the non-silver-coloured pavilion, which is placed behind a pond with rocks and stepping stones and surrounded by well-manicured trees. This was what zen-garden at its best, never failed to pacify one's soul. This attraction is also famous for its meticulously raked gravel garden and a miniature gravel Mountain, believed to represent Mount Fuji. Entrance fees cost JPY 500.

Silver Pavilion from the gravel garden view

From the Kinkyochi pond overlooking the pavilion

A closer look to the Kinkyochi pond

Togu-do (Hall)

View from the nearby hill covered by moss except the path way.

The 2-km Philosopher's path along the canal and is best stroll during cherry blossom or autumn, which can lead to Nanzen-ji (temple). 

It started to sound boring as it seemed that Kyoto is all about temple. It was partially true but these temples are always juxtaposed with beautifully crafted zen garden worthy to appear as cover for calendars, magazine or even wedding photos. Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion Temple) was no exception. I turned my attention to there afterwards, which is accessible via Raku bus 101 from Ginkaku-ji. Just need to get off at Gainkaku-ji-michi bus stop and sign post will guide you there. This time, the main pavilion is actually gold plated as the name suggested and is enhanced by a larger zen-themed pond and garden. It seemed that word was an impotent tool to describe its brilliance. Well, let the picture do the talking.

One picture says it all. The infamous Kinkaku-ji,

A closer look

My final stop of the day was the nearby Ryoan-ji (temple). From Kinkaku-ji, take Bus No. 59 to Ryoan-ji-mae bus stop. Visitors come here to see the 15 rocks-formation arranged on a nicely-raked gravel floor. Unless from a top-down view, it is impossible to see all 15 rocks at any angle. I did the count and yes, it was. This rock garden is in front of a viewing platform, allowing visitor to ponder what did the designer of the garden intend to convey, or just embrace its simplicity. Surprisingly, despite without the usual trees, flowers or water, I still think this place is never short of attractiveness.

Counting rocks from the left

Still unable to get 15 rocks even from the left. Puzzled!

Regrettably, it was almost five when I completed my visit to Ryoan-ji and missed out the nearby Ninna-ji as it passed closing hours.