Day 4 - Kyoto

Kyoto was the successor of Japanese capital after Nara in late 8th century, sustained until the Meiji Restoration circa 1860s. Escaped from allied bombings during World War 2 and catastrophic natural disaster; most of the parks, temples, shrines, zen-gardens, a Geisha district, 2 imperial palace and 2 imperial villa remain intact until today. 

I took the Kintetsu Kyoto Line from Kintetsu-Nara to Kyoto Station, costing just JPY 620. JR is slightly expensive at JPY 710 departing from Nara Station. Both options took about 45 minutes of traveling time. If you are willing to spend more, purchasing the limited express ticket at an additional of JPY 510 will save you 10 minutes of traveling time, a reserved cushion-seat and a luggage compartment. If you are traveling from Osaka, JR Special Rapid Service can take you there just under 30 minutes at JPY 560. Private Hankyu Line also has frequent train to Kyoto's Karasuma Station in 40 minutes, departing from Umeda Station and costing JPY 400.

A little luxury - I switched to limited express train at Yamato Sadaiji Station, just one stop away from Shin-Omiya Station (nearest station to my hotel at Nara)

Perhaps I was misconceived by the status of Kyoto as the ancient capital for a millennium, I never expected Kyoto is a modern, dominated by sky scrappers, suit-wearing white collars and hectic traffic city. As a starter, I was introduced by the massive 15 stories Kyoto station. It is a transportation hub with numerous bus terminal, conventional and Shinkansen (bullet train) stations. It houses several under and above ground shopping malls, a hotel and a theater. The roof of the station is open air and accessible by public.

The JR Section of Kyoto Station, showing a Shinkansen (Bullet Train) just departed.

Kyoto subway network is rather limited. Thankfully, it is supplemented by extensive bus network, with the Raku bus especially useful for traveler as it 3 lines connects to major sightseeing spot. Raku 100 and 101 depart from Kyoto Station; in which the former brings you to east side of Japan, passing by Kiyomizu  temple, Heian Shrine, Gion district and Ginkakuji. The latter covers Nijo Castle and Kinkakuji in which you can connect to other temples by switching bus at Kinkakuji. Raku 102 carries you from Ginkakuji to Kinkakuji. These 3 buses has frequent departure, ranging from every 10 minutes to 30 minutes. Other bus lines are also useful if you plan beforehand. Buses are reliable

with easily visible English Sign showing the direction of the bus, and each stop is announced in English. Delay is inevitable due to haphazard traffic condition, but based on my experience the margin does not exceed 15 minutes. All buses traveling around Kyoto cost a flat rate of JPY 230 per trip,  but one day pass at JPY 500 is perfect for anyone who travel more than 3 times per day. 

I bought the 1 day pass at tourism counter at Kyoto Station and it comes with a free bus route map and timetable.

Left: Subway one day pass which was handy on Day 5. Right: One day bus pass for Day 4

My first destination was Kiyomizu temple (Pure Water Temple) via Raku bus no. 100 to Gajozaka bus station. Adequate sign post around the area will guide you there, or just simply follow the crowd. Be prepared for the uphill hiking to the temple, passing by many snack shops, souvenirs and traditional craft shops. It was a challenging task, and rather frustrated when I reached main gate. It was crowded, and although it was unfair to say it is not great, it was just lacked the "wow" effect compare to my previous experience. For JPY 300, I got a typical wooden temple building without the adrenaline induced by its size nor design. Obviously I was looking from the wrong angle. I only realised it when I reached the sidewalk along the hill farther away. It is supported by massive column wooden scaffolding,  stretching 13 metres from the ground, enhanced by the view of cheery trees (although it was not blossoming by the time I visited) surrounding and in front of it. This panorama was what the temple best known for, condemning my ignorance from the beginning.

The main gate

Kiyomizu Temple Main Hall

Raku bus 100 brought me further to Ginkaku-ji (Silver Pavilion Temple) afterwards. I dropped off at Gainkakuji-mae. Ginkaku-ji is what I really anticipated for and had not been disappointed. The temple ground's primary focus is the actually the non-silver-coloured pavilion, which is placed behind a pond with rocks and stepping stones and surrounded by well-manicured trees. This was what zen-garden at its best, never failed to pacify one's soul. This attraction is also famous for its meticulously raked gravel garden and a miniature gravel Mountain, believed to represent Mount Fuji. Entrance fees cost JPY 500.

Silver Pavilion from the gravel garden view

From the Kinkyochi pond overlooking the pavilion

A closer look to the Kinkyochi pond

Togu-do (Hall)

View from the nearby hill covered by moss except the path way.

The 2-km Philosopher's path along the canal and is best stroll during cherry blossom or autumn, which can lead to Nanzen-ji (temple). 

It started to sound boring as it seemed that Kyoto is all about temple. It was partially true but these temples are always juxtaposed with beautifully crafted zen garden worthy to appear as cover for calendars, magazine or even wedding photos. Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion Temple) was no exception. I turned my attention to there afterwards, which is accessible via Raku bus 101 from Ginkaku-ji. Just need to get off at Gainkaku-ji-michi bus stop and sign post will guide you there. This time, the main pavilion is actually gold plated as the name suggested and is enhanced by a larger zen-themed pond and garden. It seemed that word was an impotent tool to describe its brilliance. Well, let the picture do the talking.

One picture says it all. The infamous Kinkaku-ji,

A closer look

My final stop of the day was the nearby Ryoan-ji (temple). From Kinkaku-ji, take Bus No. 59 to Ryoan-ji-mae bus stop. Visitors come here to see the 15 rocks-formation arranged on a nicely-raked gravel floor. Unless from a top-down view, it is impossible to see all 15 rocks at any angle. I did the count and yes, it was. This rock garden is in front of a viewing platform, allowing visitor to ponder what did the designer of the garden intend to convey, or just embrace its simplicity. Surprisingly, despite without the usual trees, flowers or water, I still think this place is never short of attractiveness.

Counting rocks from the left

Still unable to get 15 rocks even from the left. Puzzled!

Regrettably, it was almost five when I completed my visit to Ryoan-ji and missed out the nearby Ninna-ji as it passed closing hours.