Wednesday, 30 July 2014

Day 3 - Nara



Nara City, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was the first permanent capital of Japan. Being the central of administration and religion for almost a century, it had spawned many unique properties; each represents compelling reasons for traveler to explore. The free-roaming deer around the vast greenery of Nara Park and Mount Wakakusa seems to have tailor-made for natural-lover. Various Buddhist temples and a Shinto shrine which stood firm until modern era since 8th century will intrigue not only historical enthusiasts, but also photographers or even religious pilgrims.

Private Rail - Kintetsu Railway (Kintetsu Nara Line) and JR (Yamatoji Line) have frequent departure from Osaka-Namba Station, reaching Kintetsu-Nara station in about 40 minutes. The fastest train - Rapid Express cost JPY 560, other train cost the same but has more stops (hence longer traveling time).

I took the Kintetsu Railway directly to the heart of the city - Kintetsu Nara Station where Nara Park is a mere 10 minutes walk (JR brings you to the farther Nara Station, which is 20 - 30 minutes walk ). I only plan to explore Nara Park as a fair share of attractions are clustered around it. Spending a day there was more than enough to cover Kokfuku-ji, Todai-ji, Nara National Museum, Kasuga Taisha, Isui-en Garden and many more. Many of these sites forms part of UNESCO World Heritage - "Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara".

The Exit of Kintetsu Nara Station. Just walk straight from the station and you will reach Nara Park soon.

A bronze statue in front of Kintetsu Nara Station

The walk to and within Nara Park was extremely pleasant. Tame Silka deer are basically roaming everywhere within the park. You can go as near as touching these beautiful creatures and they won't shun away. Legend said that these deer has divine affiliation and therefore are left untouched in the park. You can even buy the Deer Cracker from the omnipresent cracker stall and feed them. If you are close to them, they will just come and grab it from you. I did wonder how does it taste but was warned by a signboard of a stall that "it taste good for deer, but bad for human!". It was a shame that I did not try to feed the deer, and I recommended one does.

Deer resting in front of one of Nara Park entrance
Kofuku-ji (temple) is the nearest temple from Kintetsu-Nara Station. This temple complex has a large wooden hall and a tall pagoda. The hall is adequately merit for a few snap shots and the pagoda is rather breathtaking for its height, albeit not as beautiful as Toji (temple) in Kyoto (which I will describe in the latter post). Not bad to start the journey here, serving as a warm up for something more magnificent afterwards. Admission for temple ground is free.

Kofukuji Main Temple Complex


Deer resting nearby Kofukuji

Waiting for food? At the back is the Deer Cracker stall.

The main highlight is Toda-ji (The Great Eastern Temple). The moment I pass through the main gate, what presented in my eyes was simply awe-inspiring despite the view was flooded by a mixture of human-deer crowd. Perhaps the largest wooden structure in the world, this behemoth main hall is flanked by two vast, impeccably manicured lawn which further enhance my admiration of it. At the cost of JPY 500, you can also experience the largest Buddha Bronze Statue within the main hall.


The path towards the main gate

Todaji

Nearby the main hall is the Nigatsu-do (February Hall). Not as fascinating as the main hall, it is less crowded but offered a more peaceful experience. The smaller hall is on top of a hill which one can climb up to the verandah. The serenity of the surrounding can be a sanctuary for immense relaxation, or perhaps meditation.
Nigatsu-do

Nigatsu-do, view taken from the hall verandah.

Next was Mount Wakakusa was the terminus of my sightseeing trip. Looking from its base, it is an unforgettable sea of greenery slope where visitor can climb up the hill by paying JPY 150. It was the perfect place for resting, with the fine view acted as a catalyst of inner calmness. On the other side, there are a few souvenir shops and eateries, quite crowded by elementary school children on a field trip.
Mount Wakakusa from base

A shopping street with Mount Wakakusa as background


My next and last destination is Kasuga-Taisha Shrine (The Shrine of Spring). It was a 30 minutes passage through the inner section of Nara Park, resembling to a "return to past" sort of journey. It does sound cliche but the whole trip was completely shielded from the sound of urban mechanics, leaving just chirping of birds and uncanny insect noise. This shrine is famous for its stone lanterns, either on the narrow pathway around the temple ground or along the roof of the building corridor. Exhaustion kicks in when I reached there and I only briefly strolled by. Outer area is free and it cost JPY 500 to enter the main hall. 

The stone lantern of Kasuga-Taisha Shrine


A group of deer nearby the shrine

Column of Bronze Lantern

I proceeded for lunch afterwards in a Kaiten Sushi (Conveyor Belt Sushi) at Higashimuki Shopping Street, which is just in front of the Kintetsu Nara Station. This boulevard is rather touristy, where most theme of handicrafts and souvenirs are deer-based.

One last look at the park

Interesting signboard warning "potential threat" of a deer

The quiet shopping street - picture taken in the morning.

There are more temples, a National Museum and gardens around Nara Park which only can be covered by additional stamina. Horyuj (temple) complex and Former Imperial Palace - Heijo deserve a dedicated excursions, which I recommend and wish to visit some day. 

In fact, omitting the above mentioned temples etc, Nara is still a concrete jungle without the spectacular architecture artistic and this is a blessing in disguise. A stroll in the less touristy part of city provided a more local outlook. It was the usual - commuters in and out of local train station, folks shopping at local supermarkets, school children munching tidbits on the way back home. I always love to look at these seemingly mundane activities, probably because it whispers a sense of closeness. Less excitement is a virtue, urging one to slow down their pace to simply experience life.

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