Day 4 - Kyoto

Kyoto was the successor of Japanese capital after Nara in late 8th century, sustained until the Meiji Restoration circa 1860s. Escaped from allied bombings during World War 2 and catastrophic natural disaster; most of the parks, temples, shrines, zen-gardens, a Geisha district, 2 imperial palace and 2 imperial villa remain intact until today. 

I took the Kintetsu Kyoto Line from Kintetsu-Nara to Kyoto Station, costing just JPY 620. JR is slightly expensive at JPY 710 departing from Nara Station. Both options took about 45 minutes of traveling time. If you are willing to spend more, purchasing the limited express ticket at an additional of JPY 510 will save you 10 minutes of traveling time, a reserved cushion-seat and a luggage compartment. If you are traveling from Osaka, JR Special Rapid Service can take you there just under 30 minutes at JPY 560. Private Hankyu Line also has frequent train to Kyoto's Karasuma Station in 40 minutes, departing from Umeda Station and costing JPY 400.

A little luxury - I switched to limited express train at Yamato Sadaiji Station, just one stop away from Shin-Omiya Station (nearest station to my hotel at Nara)

Perhaps I was misconceived by the status of Kyoto as the ancient capital for a millennium, I never expected Kyoto is a modern, dominated by sky scrappers, suit-wearing white collars and hectic traffic city. As a starter, I was introduced by the massive 15 stories Kyoto station. It is a transportation hub with numerous bus terminal, conventional and Shinkansen (bullet train) stations. It houses several under and above ground shopping malls, a hotel and a theater. The roof of the station is open air and accessible by public.

The JR Section of Kyoto Station, showing a Shinkansen (Bullet Train) just departed.

Kyoto subway network is rather limited. Thankfully, it is supplemented by extensive bus network, with the Raku bus especially useful for traveler as it 3 lines connects to major sightseeing spot. Raku 100 and 101 depart from Kyoto Station; in which the former brings you to east side of Japan, passing by Kiyomizu  temple, Heian Shrine, Gion district and Ginkakuji. The latter covers Nijo Castle and Kinkakuji in which you can connect to other temples by switching bus at Kinkakuji. Raku 102 carries you from Ginkakuji to Kinkakuji. These 3 buses has frequent departure, ranging from every 10 minutes to 30 minutes. Other bus lines are also useful if you plan beforehand. Buses are reliable

with easily visible English Sign showing the direction of the bus, and each stop is announced in English. Delay is inevitable due to haphazard traffic condition, but based on my experience the margin does not exceed 15 minutes. All buses traveling around Kyoto cost a flat rate of JPY 230 per trip,  but one day pass at JPY 500 is perfect for anyone who travel more than 3 times per day. 

I bought the 1 day pass at tourism counter at Kyoto Station and it comes with a free bus route map and timetable.

Left: Subway one day pass which was handy on Day 5. Right: One day bus pass for Day 4

My first destination was Kiyomizu temple (Pure Water Temple) via Raku bus no. 100 to Gajozaka bus station. Adequate sign post around the area will guide you there, or just simply follow the crowd. Be prepared for the uphill hiking to the temple, passing by many snack shops, souvenirs and traditional craft shops. It was a challenging task, and rather frustrated when I reached main gate. It was crowded, and although it was unfair to say it is not great, it was just lacked the "wow" effect compare to my previous experience. For JPY 300, I got a typical wooden temple building without the adrenaline induced by its size nor design. Obviously I was looking from the wrong angle. I only realised it when I reached the sidewalk along the hill farther away. It is supported by massive column wooden scaffolding,  stretching 13 metres from the ground, enhanced by the view of cheery trees (although it was not blossoming by the time I visited) surrounding and in front of it. This panorama was what the temple best known for, condemning my ignorance from the beginning.

The main gate

Kiyomizu Temple Main Hall

Raku bus 100 brought me further to Ginkaku-ji (Silver Pavilion Temple) afterwards. I dropped off at Gainkakuji-mae. Ginkaku-ji is what I really anticipated for and had not been disappointed. The temple ground's primary focus is the actually the non-silver-coloured pavilion, which is placed behind a pond with rocks and stepping stones and surrounded by well-manicured trees. This was what zen-garden at its best, never failed to pacify one's soul. This attraction is also famous for its meticulously raked gravel garden and a miniature gravel Mountain, believed to represent Mount Fuji. Entrance fees cost JPY 500.

Silver Pavilion from the gravel garden view

From the Kinkyochi pond overlooking the pavilion

A closer look to the Kinkyochi pond

Togu-do (Hall)

View from the nearby hill covered by moss except the path way.

The 2-km Philosopher's path along the canal and is best stroll during cherry blossom or autumn, which can lead to Nanzen-ji (temple). 

It started to sound boring as it seemed that Kyoto is all about temple. It was partially true but these temples are always juxtaposed with beautifully crafted zen garden worthy to appear as cover for calendars, magazine or even wedding photos. Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion Temple) was no exception. I turned my attention to there afterwards, which is accessible via Raku bus 101 from Ginkaku-ji. Just need to get off at Gainkaku-ji-michi bus stop and sign post will guide you there. This time, the main pavilion is actually gold plated as the name suggested and is enhanced by a larger zen-themed pond and garden. It seemed that word was an impotent tool to describe its brilliance. Well, let the picture do the talking.

One picture says it all. The infamous Kinkaku-ji,

A closer look

My final stop of the day was the nearby Ryoan-ji (temple). From Kinkaku-ji, take Bus No. 59 to Ryoan-ji-mae bus stop. Visitors come here to see the 15 rocks-formation arranged on a nicely-raked gravel floor. Unless from a top-down view, it is impossible to see all 15 rocks at any angle. I did the count and yes, it was. This rock garden is in front of a viewing platform, allowing visitor to ponder what did the designer of the garden intend to convey, or just embrace its simplicity. Surprisingly, despite without the usual trees, flowers or water, I still think this place is never short of attractiveness.

Counting rocks from the left

Still unable to get 15 rocks even from the left. Puzzled!

Regrettably, it was almost five when I completed my visit to Ryoan-ji and missed out the nearby Ninna-ji as it passed closing hours.

Day 3 - Nara

Nara City, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was the first permanent capital of Japan. Being the central of administration and religion for almost a century, it had spawned many unique properties; each represents compelling reasons for traveler to explore. The free-roaming deer around the vast greenery of Nara Park and Mount Wakakusa seems to have tailor-made for natural-lover. Various Buddhist temples and a Shinto shrine which stood firm until modern era since 8th century will intrigue not only historical enthusiasts, but also photographers or even religious pilgrims.

Private Rail - Kintetsu Railway (Kintetsu Nara Line) and JR (Yamatoji Line) have frequent departure from Osaka-Namba Station, reaching Kintetsu-Nara station in about 40 minutes. The fastest train - Rapid Express cost JPY 560, other train cost the same but has more stops (hence longer traveling time).

I took the Kintetsu Railway directly to the heart of the city - Kintetsu Nara Station where Nara Park is a mere 10 minutes walk (JR brings you to the farther Nara Station, which is 20 - 30 minutes walk ). I only plan to explore Nara Park as a fair share of attractions are clustered around it. Spending a day there was more than enough to cover Kokfuku-ji, Todai-ji, Nara National Museum, Kasuga Taisha, Isui-en Garden and many more. Many of these sites forms part of UNESCO World Heritage - "Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara".

The Exit of Kintetsu Nara Station. Just walk straight from the station and you will reach Nara Park soon.

A bronze statue in front of Kintetsu Nara Station

The walk to and within Nara Park was extremely pleasant. Tame Silka deer are basically roaming everywhere within the park. You can go as near as touching these beautiful creatures and they won't shun away. Legend said that these deer has divine affiliation and therefore are left untouched in the park. You can even buy the Deer Cracker from the omnipresent cracker stall and feed them. If you are close to them, they will just come and grab it from you. I did wonder how does it taste but was warned by a signboard of a stall that "it taste good for deer, but bad for human!". It was a shame that I did not try to feed the deer, and I recommended one does.

Deer resting in front of one of Nara Park entrance

Kofuku-ji (temple) is the nearest temple from Kintetsu-Nara Station. This temple complex has a large wooden hall and a tall pagoda. The hall is adequately merit for a few snap shots and the pagoda is rather breathtaking for its height, albeit not as beautiful as Toji (temple) in Kyoto (which I will describe in the latter post). Not bad to start the journey here, serving as a warm up for something more magnificent afterwards. Admission for temple ground is free.

Kofukuji Main Temple Complex

Deer resting nearby Kofukuji

Waiting for food? At the back is the Deer Cracker stall.

The main highlight is Toda-ji (The Great Eastern Temple). The moment I pass through the main gate, what presented in my eyes was simply awe-inspiring despite the view was flooded by a mixture of human-deer crowd. Perhaps the largest wooden structure in the world, this behemoth main hall is flanked by two vast, impeccably manicured lawn which further enhance my admiration of it. At the cost of JPY 500, you can also experience the largest Buddha Bronze Statue within the main hall.

The path towards the main gate

Todaji

Nearby the main hall is the Nigatsu-do (February Hall). Not as fascinating as the main hall, it is less crowded but offered a more peaceful experience. The smaller hall is on top of a hill which one can climb up to the verandah. The serenity of the surrounding can be a sanctuary for immense relaxation, or perhaps meditation.

Nigatsu-do

Nigatsu-do, view taken from the hall verandah.

Next was Mount Wakakusa was the terminus of my sightseeing trip. Looking from its base, it is an unforgettable sea of greenery slope where visitor can climb up the hill by paying JPY 150. It was the perfect place for resting, with the fine view acted as a catalyst of inner calmness. On the other side, there are a few souvenir shops and eateries, quite crowded by elementary school children on a field trip.

Mount Wakakusa from base

A shopping street with Mount Wakakusa as background

My next and last destination is Kasuga-Taisha Shrine (The Shrine of Spring). It was a 30 minutes passage through the inner section of Nara Park, resembling to a "return to past" sort of journey. It does sound cliche but the whole trip was completely shielded from the sound of urban mechanics, leaving just chirping of birds and uncanny insect noise. This shrine is famous for its stone lanterns, either on the narrow pathway around the temple ground or along the roof of the building corridor. Exhaustion kicks in when I reached there and I only briefly strolled by. Outer area is free and it cost JPY 500 to enter the main hall. 

The stone lantern of Kasuga-Taisha Shrine

A group of deer nearby the shrine

Column of Bronze Lantern

I proceeded for lunch afterwards in a Kaiten Sushi (Conveyor Belt Sushi) at Higashimuki Shopping Street, which is just in front of the Kintetsu Nara Station. This boulevard is rather touristy, where most theme of handicrafts and souvenirs are deer-based.

One last look at the park

Interesting signboard warning "potential threat" of a deer

The quiet shopping street - picture taken in the morning.

There are more temples, a National Museum and gardens around Nara Park which only can be covered by additional stamina. Horyuj (temple) complex and Former Imperial Palace - Heijo deserve a dedicated excursions, which I recommend and wish to visit some day. 

In fact, omitting the above mentioned temples etc, Nara is still a concrete jungle without the spectacular architecture artistic and this is a blessing in disguise. A stroll in the less touristy part of city provided a more local outlook. It was the usual - commuters in and out of local train station, folks shopping at local supermarkets, school children munching tidbits on the way back home. I always love to look at these seemingly mundane activities, probably because it whispers a sense of closeness. Less excitement is a virtue, urging one to slow down their pace to simply experience life.

Day 2 - Osaka

Foreign visitor to Osaka is eligible to purchase Osaka Day pass which enable you to visit 28 sight seeing facilities for free, including the popular Umeda Sky Building and Osaka Castle. It is also comes with free unlimited usage of subways and buses. 1 day pass cost JPY 2,300 while 2 days pass cost JPY 3,000. It is highly recommended for tourist who plan to visit 3 or more of the tourist attraction covered by the pass.

Since my priority at Osaka is the Castle and shopping, I ignored it.

I missed the infamous Glico Man neon signboard on the previous night. First thing to do on Day 2 after breakfast was to find it. 

Located near Ebisu bridge along the Dotonbori canal, here it is:

Unfortunately,  it is not as spectacular as night but morning is the best timing to get a clear picture without the crowd. Morning stroll along the canal was a rewarding experience as well. 

My next stop is Osaka Castle. It is around 5 minute walk from the subway to Tannimachi 4-chome station. This massive castle was constructed in the 16th century, destroyed and reconstructed several times. It is now erected in the centre of a massive park famous for its cherry park and surrounded by an outer and inner moat. The castle building is now converted into a museum telling the rise and fall of the castle as well as its founder and subsequent occupants. Its top floor is the observatory deck. Entrance fees costs JPY 600. 

Osaka Castle Park walk way towards its main entrance.

Outer moat of the castle park

Otemon gate - entrance to the inner moat

Sakuramon gate - entrance to the main castle complex

Self-explanatory - the massive castle building

Small field of flower nearby the castle complex.

Unfortunately, it started to rain after lunch. I have no choice but to spend the afternoon in Namba Walk. It is a long underground shopping arcade spanning two subway station i,e. Namba station and Nihhonbashi Station. 

 

Day 1 - Osaka

Getting to Osaka from Kansai International Airport

There are a few options to travel into the heart of Osaka:

1) Private rail Nankai Airport Express cost JPY 920 can get you to Namba under 50 minutes.
2) Private rail Nankai Airport Limited Express Rapi:it cost JPY 1,430 is a faster alternative within 37 minutes.
3) JR Kansai Airport Rapid Service cost JPY 1,190 can get you to Osaka Station in 70+ minutes
4) JR Haruka Limited Express cost JPY 3,050 can get you to Shin-Osaka just under 50 minutes.

Namba is the main shopping district where Dotonbori and Shinshaibashi is within the vicinity, If you have a JR pass, you can use the JR Haruka Limited Express and change station at JR Tennoji station to JR Namba station for free.

Arrived at Kansai International Airport around 4pm. Located on a man-made island, this airport is well sign-posted in English. One can easily locate the tourism counter and train station. Maps are available at the tourism counter stationed by English-speaking Japanese lady who greets you with a warm “Welcome to Japan”.

I bought the ICOCA-Haruka rail pass* at the JR West office just in front of the entrance of train station. Staff speaks limited English but I have no problem in getting the pass smoothly. 

The Haruka Limited express ticket. You will be issued with 2 tickets for each trip if you bought the round-trip version. 

ICOCA rechargeable contactless smart card with Osaka Castle and Hello Kitty as cover art. 

Train ride to Osaka was a peaceful journey. I whisked through the quiet suburban on a Sunday evening  there’s no traffic congestion & hustle-bustle of human activity. Just the scene of occasional local folks riding their bicycle or strolling serenely nearby the train tracks portraying a lazy Sunday evening. 

The peaceful Izumisano suburb just outside Kansai Airport.

 

I spent the night at Dotonbori, a large shopping arcade which has a fair share of exciting eateries with over-the-top signboard. The experience here was completely different than the train ride just now. Packed with people doing their last minute chill out before enduring Monday blue, it is as lively as morning rush hour with less intensity. Here, it was a perfect appetiser in my trip to get a glimpse of urban culture in Japan. 

Scenes of Dotonbori street

Scenes of Dotonbori street

One of the restaurants with giant dragon as signboard.

The famous crab restaurant with of course, a giant mechanised crab signboard.

*ICOCA-Haruka pass includes a return ticket from Kansai International Aiport to either Osaka, Kyoto and Kobe and a pre-charged with JPY 1,500 ICOCA smart card. Your arrival station from the airport need not to be same as your departure station to airport as long as it is within the Osaka, Kyoto and Kobe zone. It cost JPY 4,060 for round trip or JPY 3,030 for single trip.